Food & Wine

One Bottle: Der Pollerhof 2018 Frau Mayer Grüner Veltliner

by Trevor Felch

Der Pollerhof 2018 Frau Mayer Grüner Veltliner
Der Pollerhof 2018 Frau Mayer Grüner Veltliner

Der Pollerhof 2018 Frau Mayer Grüner Veltliner

It’s been a full year since shelter-in-place first started, and we all could use a vacation right now — even if it’s only a temporary journey in a bottle of wine.

So, let’s head to northeast Austria’s prolific Weinviertel region, where the hills are alive with some of Central Europe’s most celebrated vineyards. There, close to the Czech Republic border, Erwin Poller meticulously crafts a small roster of wines for his Der Pollerhof label, including this sterling grüner veltliner (Austria’s signature grape).

With the star backbone duo of all-granite soil and 75-year-old vines, the Frau Mayer (named for its vineyard source’s longtime owner) is a formidable example of Austrian grüner veltliner. It’s more powerful and assertive than many of its crisp white wine peers, with gorgeous acidity, a bright personality and lovely kiwi, ginger and cinnamon notes. This is the perfect wine to welcome the spring season, along with a hopeful toast to fun travels returning someday soon.

The 2018 Der Pollerhof Frau Mayer Grüner Veltliner can be found at select local fine dining restaurants and wine shops (at press time, it was at Ungrafted in San Francisco, but vintages can vary from source to source depending on availability), or shipped from wine purveyors elsewhere in the country. Its importer, Winemonger in Marin County, can often help with locating the wine.

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